Paris: Musee National de Ceramique

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MUSĒE NATIONAL DE CĒRAMIQUE

At the gates of Paris along the River Seine, the National Ceramic Museum adjoins the national factory that produces Sevres porcelain, and the expansive Parc de St Cloud.

The museum was created in the first years of the 19^th century by Alexandre Brongniart, who became director of the porcelain factory in 1800. He wanted to display all the categories of ceramics (pottery, faience, stoneware, porcelain, but also enamels, stained glass windows and glass) from all countries and all time periods.

Previously the porcelain factory was in Vincennes on the far east side of Paris, but it was moved to Sevres on the south west side in 1756, apparently at the request of Madame de Pompadour, and from 1760 was state controlled.

In 1876 the porcelain factory and the museum of ceramics moved from their building in the heart of Sevres, to the current building between the pont de Sevres (Sevres bridge) and the parc de St Cloud (St Cloud park). In 1934 the administration of the factory and the museum were separated, although tours of the workshops behind the museum can still be arranged.

Today, due to a dynamic acquisition program, and through donations, the museum has almost 50,000 pieces, from antiquity to present day, from the Italian renaissance to Japan, from Moorish Spain to 18^th century Europe.

For those interested in ceramics, this museum is a real find, as about 5,000 works of art are displayed, from all eras. Each piece is labeled and you could spend hours looking and learning. Even if you don’t have in-depth knowledge of ceramics this is a great museum, as there are so many beautiful pieces. In the various rooms on the two floors are groupings of pieces from certain time periods or certain places—ancient America, Islamic, Chinese, Japanese, many from Italy (Florence, Sienna, Venice), Germany (such as Meissen from Saxe), and other areas of France (Vincennes, Saint-Cloud, Chantilly, Mennecy).

At the entrance we are welcomed by 2 huge blue and white urns, about 12 feet tall, a suitable introduction to the wealth inside. We wandered around for a couple of hours, amazed at what can be made from ceramics, and at how beautifully finished the objects are—fine details, gorgeous colors, exquisite paintings. There are more enormous urns, vases, plates, tureens, watering cans, teacups and saucers, busts of famous people, decorative pots in fanciful shapes (such as animals). We notice lots of gold color; many pieces decorated with paintings of scenes from a city or with the face of an important person; many have animals (notably snakes, but we also saw rabbits, lizards and even a squirrel). There are also modern pieces, such as a large brightly-painted ceramic family, a huge red apple, and an elongated brown figure that’s very evocative of African art.

Over the years the names of many famous people have been linked to the factory-museum. Supposedly in 1776 Thomas Bentley, Josiah Wedgewood’s partner, was very impressed by what he saw in the factory (and perhaps learned a few tips). The composer, Lully, lived in a nearby pavilion, named after him. Some of the designers of Sevres porcelain were E.M. Falconet (1716-91) and J.B. Pigalle (1714-85). (I’d often wondered where the name of the well-known Pigalle area of the city came from).

Well worth the trip out of the city center.

PRACTICALITIES:

Place de la Manufacture, Sèvres

Tel: 01 41 14 04 20

Open every day except Tuesday and some holidays

Entrance fee: €4.50, €3 for 18-25 years, under 18 free. Free to all the first Sunday of the month.

Metro: Pont de Sevres (cross the river, and the museum is on your right)

Tramway: T2

Bus: 169, 171, 179

www.musee-ceramique-sevres.fr

WC in the basement. A small gift- and bookshop on the entrance level. Many special programs and events offered through the year; check website.