Posts Tagged ‘where to eat in Sapporo’


Satoshi and Max enjoy the meal


Max helps cook the meat and vegetables

Sapporo is well-known for special Ghengis Khan grilled lamb meals and the principle places are run by big beer halls. The two main ones are at Sapporo Beer Garden, which I wrote about before (https://viviennemackie.wordpress.com/2016/10/23/japan-a-hokkaido-special-dish/ ) and the other is at the Kirin Beer Hall. Both Sapporo and Kirin are very popular Japanese beers.


Another marvelous meal!

On our final night in Sapporo this last trip, Satoshi booked us into the Premier Hotel. It’s in the Suskino area of town, where a lot of the nightlife is, so lots of neon lights, and really busy especially on a Saturday evening

For dinner that evening we went our for a Ghengis Khan meal again, somehow fitting, as we had Ghengis on our first evening in the city. The Kirin Beer Hall was within walking distance of the Premier Hotel, so very convenient.

Satoshi and Max took Rod and I and once again we had a lovely evening together and a


The grill is set down in the center of the table

great meal. Here, the grills are set out differently: they are set down a bit in the center of the tables. But, otherwise the concept is very similar: first, put on bibs to protect clothes, then cook plenty of vegetables and pieces of thinly sliced meat on the grill, using large tongs. Wash it down with plenty of beer and/or wine.

We also had a smoked hokke fish as a snack first. Over the years, Rod and I have come to really like hokke and Satoshi wanted us to have it “one last time”. Delicious and much appreciated.


Hooke is great


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Almost too pretty to eat



Kuwana Restaurant in Sapporo, Japan

Miniature edible works of art

Another Amazing Meal in Hokkaido—-Have we ever had a mediocre meal?!

This is a very special restaurant in Sapporo, in the busy downtown Susukino area (think chain stores, neon lights, night life). We went here one evening with Dr K, Satoshi, Max and 2 students from the lab. It’s in a busy nightlife area, down a small side street with many obvious adult entertainment places, so we’d never find it on our own. I doubt many tourists come here, unless they speak and read Japanese, as nothing is in English really.


Baby tempura


A pork dish


Our plates arrive with a clothes peg

So, once again, we are so lucky to have very involved hosts who want us to experience the best their city has to offer. We came by subway, on the Green line from Sapporo JR Station. This is the second stop; the first is Odori.

Kuwana is a small place on two levels: downstairs is a bar-counter, and upstairs is zashiki seating, where we sit with our feet dangling in a cut-out area below the low table. It might be small, with only 28 seats, but it’s a very nice place, quite formal with all the dishes exquisitely presented.


How to hold the hot clam shell with the clothes peg


Plate of clams

It is known for baked clams in particular. They use the Hamaguri, or common orient clam, a saltwater clam found in Japan. When we sat down we wondered why each person had a clothes-peg on their side plate, but soon found out. We used the peg to hold the shell of the baked clams, as the shells are extremely hot, and then picked out the clam with chopsticks. The clams were delicious, but so many other small amazing dishes appeared after the clams that I’d be really hard-pressed to pick a favorite.


Sea grape seaweed pops in the mouth


Tuna tomato salad


A tuna bone is a delicacy

All were tasty, all beautifully presented—the whole meal like a work of art. One was umibudo (sea grape), a special kind of seaweed that looks like tiny green grapes, which pop in your mouth when you bite them.

Again, we are really fortunate to be taken out to places like this, and to be treated so well. This is a wonderful way of learning about a very special part of Japanese culture: its cuisine. The Japanese are very proud of their cuisine, and we are very willing learners and experimenters.


Max, Risa and Yuki


They even had a cheese plate


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The venue


The menu

beersignSapporo Beer Garden and Genghis Khan Lamb Grill—For Old Times Sake

Sapporo Beer Garden, its slogan “The Beer that Made Sapporo Famous”

Genghis Khan Grilled Lamb, or Jinghis Khan Barbecued Lamb is the speciality of Hokkaido. Whatever you call it, it’s delicious.

On our first evening of our recent visit to Sapporo we went with our hosts, Satoshi and Max, to the Sapporo Beer Garden, one of the most well-known eating places in the city, and recommended by all the guidebooks and the CVB brochures. It’s also called Sapporo Bier Garten, as it is modeled on the German concept of a beer hall and the beer is based on German-style brewing techniques. We’d been there a number of times on our last visits, so this was a great place to eat and reminisce about the wonderful former dinners. We’d had fondue before (hot oil or broth), and Chinese Hot Pot (hot broth in a pot, either individual or shared), and food cooked on a hot stone. But never quite like this until we came to Hokkaido six years ago—meat on a grill surface but not touching an open flame or any liquid.



50yearsWe went by taxi, as many people do, but there is also a direct bus from the Sapporo Station. Sapporo Beer Garden is a huge, very popular, place, in a traditional red brick building next to the Beer Museum. It was built in 1890 as a sugar factory, and then was used as a malting plant until 1963. From 1966 it became the Sapporo Beer Garden. So, this year is a special year, as they are celebrating 50 years in business.

The beer hall-restaurant in Kessel Hall is on a number of levels around an open atrium, with many tables. The speciality is Genghis Khan lamb, and each table is especially equipped with a couple of black gas grills, in a special domed shape/design. There are also other eating halls and an outdoor beer garden in the warm season.


Kessel Hall

4beersModeled on a German beer-drinking hall, the main floor of Kessel Hall has tables and a large copper kettle dating from 1912 in the corner. There are also tables upstairs, overlooking the main hall.

Beer of 3 types (light, dark, and medium) comes in small (500ml), medium (830ml) and large (1L) glass steins—pretty good, very cold. It’s fresh draft beer, straight out of the factory. The hall has a very convivial atmosphere and it seems that most people choose the speciality, the Genghis Khan lamb. Depending on size, each table is equipped with a number of the specially designed gas grills (our table for 6 had 2 grills). The grill is ridged domed, with an outer lip along the bottom, and the handles and outer edges have a shape that Satoshi tells me look like the shape of Hokkaido.


Satoshi rubs the surface with fat


cooking2Here’s how you do it:

When we arrived we put on our bibs, a large plastic white one with the blue symbols of the Beer Garden: 2 lions round a star. The servers also brought large plastic bags for handbags, scarves etc, so they don’t take up the lamb cooking smell. There are two types of lamb, both thinly sliced: fresh strips, or the frozen ones, which are all circular as the meat was frozen in a cylinder shape. Many people think that the round slices look much more attractive. The slices of the two meats came on separate platters, plus a platter of raw vegetables—pumpkin slices, very coarsely shredded cabbage, onion strips, mushrooms, and huge bean sprouts.


groupOne of the servers turned on the grills and our hosts rubbed the top point of the dome with a piece of lamb fat till it dripped down and the grill was coated. Using wooden chopsticks or metal tongs they put vegetables round the bottom edge, then slices of meat, turning and manipulating frequently. Each person got a small serving plate and a dipping bowl, which the waitress filled with dipping sauce from a metal jug on the table.

It gets very hot and steamy round the grill, with wonderful lamb aromas. Very tasty and perfect for a group. It’s quite noisy, but that’s part of the atmosphere.4sign

The menu has pictures and English sub-titles, but the wait staff don’t speak much English, so we were very happy to have guidance.

Address: Kita (N) 7, Higashi (E) 9.

Open 11:30am-10pm (last order 9:30pm), 7 days a week.

Note: they really do close at 10pm, as they warn the patrons promptly at 9:55pm, and begin playing a version of “Aulde Lang Syne”!

www.sapporo-bier-garten.jp (click on English on the top menu bar, towards the right)


You can even buy beer chocolates

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