St Louis: “Ladies of The Loop”

Musing?

The Loop is a bustling 6-block area on Delmar Boulevard in west St Louis, close to the University area . It has many fun speciality shops, great restaurants and coffee shops. Perhaps the most well-known is Blueberry Hill, a restaurant and music club, inspired by Chuck Berry’s catchy song of the same name. One of the most unusual is probably Cheese-ology, the only place in St Louis where you can find more than a dozen different types of mac ‘n cheese!

The Loop is also famous for the St Louis Walk-of-Fame, which honors famous folk from St Louis with brass stars and information plaques set in the sidewalks.

When we were there last week we found some really fascinating street sculptures of mannequin-type female figures. We dubbed them “Ladies of The Loop”. What fun.

http://visittheloop.com

From another world?

Go green!

 

Reflections, Reflections: Chicago’s Cloud Gate, aka “The Bean”

The Cloud always attracts many visitors

Rod at arch of The Cloud, with some of the skyline and visitors reflected

The Cloud in spring

If you’re in Chicago, chances are that seeing the Cloud Gate will be on your “must-see” list. It is for us, and even though I’ve visited it many times over the years, I never tire of seeing this remarkable sculpture, as it has so many faces and facets.

Cloud Gate—referred to by locals as “The Bean”, for obvious reasons—is a public outdoor sculpture in Chicago’s Millennium Park designed by talented Indian-born British artist Anish Kapoor. It has quickly become one of the most popular photo ops in the city, due to its unique reflective properties. Supposedly Kapoor was inspired by liquid mercury, and the resultant surface reflects and distorts the city’s skyline. You can get great photos, not only of the Cloud Gate and all the amazing reflections of the city’s buildings on it, but also of the actual skyline framed beyond the sculpture.

The Cloud and Chicago skyline

“The Bean” is made up of 168 stainless steel plates welded together, and its highly polished exterior has no visible seams. This seamless surface is the result of thousands of hours of polishing. It is 33 by 66 by 42 feet (10 by 20 by 13 m), and weighs 110 tons.

The Cloud in rain

The sculpture is shaped like a giant drop of liquid mercury (or a huge silver jelly bean) and the mirrored surface offers an amazing reflection of the city skyline, in any kind of weather. A bright, shiny sharp reflection on a sunny day, or a dreamy, misty look on a foggy or rainy day. You will also find many visitors, regardless of the weather or season, although it will be more crowded on a warm sunny day. Most visitors walk around the outside first, and then underneath the 12-foot high arch of Cloud Gate.  On the underside is the “omphalos” (Greek for “navel”), a concave chamber that warps and multiplies reflections. Kids (of all ages) enjoy the fun-house mirror effect that this creates—including me and my family. We hear amazed gasps and astonished comments, as people try to get pictures of their multiple selves. Some of the reflections are smaller or larger than you’d expect and at some angles it’s a little like playing “Where’s Waldo?” trying to find yourself or a friend.

Reflections of reflections. Where is he?

The sculpture was selected during a design competition. After Kapoor’s design was chosen, there were numerous technological concerns about the design’s construction and assembly, in addition to concerns regarding the sculpture’s upkeep and maintenance. After much discussion and consulting with experts, they decided to proceed with construction, but by then it was—of course—behind schedule. During the grand opening celebration of Millennium Park in 2004, the sculpture was briefly unveiled in an incomplete form and then covered again while it was completed. Cloud Gate was formally dedicated on May 15, 2006 and has since become one of Chicago’s icons.

Not to be missed, along with the other interesting features in Millennium Park.

Our reflection this spring

Our reflection one summer

Chicago: Badgers and Stele in Millennium Park?

Some of Jun Kaneko’s colorful ceramic stele in Millennium Park

Chicago: Millennium Park’s Outdoor Exhibitions

The Jun Kaneko Exhibition, April 12-Nov 3, 2013.

As I wandered around Millennium Park on our last trip to Chicago in April, I came across two unusual exhibits in the outdoor exhibition spaces in the park, one on the North Boeing Gallery and the other on the South Boeing Gallery. They have changing exhibitions, so we’ve seen quite a few different ones over the years.

These current ones are monumental ceramic sculptures by Japanese Jun Kaneko, a pioneer in this field, who loves to play with scale and proportion. They are bright and colorful and well worth a stop. Jun Kaneko was born in Nagoya, Japan, but has been based in Omaha, Nebraska since 1986.

The works presented in the South Boeing Gallery feature Kaneko’s signature Dangos (meaning “rounded form” or “dumpling” in Japanese). They are ceramic steles, covered in a variety of vibrant shapes and patterns, and in a certain sense reminded me of ancient Mayan steles.

The North Boeing Gallery features a new body of work by Kaneko, which draws on the myths and legends of the Tanuki figure. Some

The colorful tanuki-like ceramic creatures on the North Boeing gallery

Japanese told us that Tanuki  are badgers, while others say these creatures are raccoon dogs! From ancient times, the Japanese have expressed the Tanuki in a variety of ways, for they are considered to be drunken rascals who cause trouble and mayhem in both the human and supernatural worlds. When we were in Japan we enjoyed learning about the Tanuki, so it was fun to see these different versions here in Chicago.

See my entry on Tanuki here
http://viviennemackie.wordpress.com/2010/10/03/tanuki-aka-raccoons/

Tanuki—open to all kinds of interpretation

 

 

 

 

Some more Dangos, or ceramic stele

 

 

 

 

 

 

Millennium Park. 201 E. Randolph Str, Between Michigan Ave and Columbus Ave.

Free admission. Open daily all year 6am-11pm

Welcome Center is on Randolph Street, close to the Pritzker Pavilion.

 

Durban: A B&B with a View of the Sea

The view from our patio-balcony is wonderful, even in the rain!

B&B By The Sea—A Simple Name but an Outstanding Place

16 Summit Road, Sheffield Beach, about 15-20 minutes north of Durban’s King Shaka Airport. Take the N2 north to exit 214 and cross the bridge back over the highway towards Salt Rock. The web page gives full directions.

Contact Sue Stiles at bbsue@iafrica.com

Tel: +27 (0) 32 525 8079    Web: www.bbbythesea.com

This is a lovely place, and well situated—either to avoid the crowds and noise of the city, or as a night-stop on the way to the KZN game parks. We were on our way to Hluhluwe-Imfolozi National Park.

Our party was in the suite above the garage, which has 2 en-suite bedrooms, plus lounge, and kitchen. It’s fully equipped with tea and coffee, a fridge, microwave, TV and DVD in the room, plus plates and cutlery. If the weather is good, there is a braai (barbecue) area by the pool that guests can use, then you wouldn’t need the kitchen. The balcony has stunning views down over the indigenous garden (with fragrant frangipani trees) to the sea and rocky beach.

A pretty frangipani tree below our patio (if you look closely you can see raindrops on some of the petals)

Unfortunately, when we were there it was pouring so we could not eat outside, nor really enjoy the sea views much, although we could tell they were wonderful. The stairs up to the suite were very slippery in the rain, so we had to be careful.

Lock-up garage for guests cars is a great feature, for many reasons, not least of which are all the vervet monkeys that live around here—very mischievous creatures that try to get into everything.

If the weather is good, breakfast is served on the balcony overlooking the beach and many mornings you’ll see dolphins swim past. On rainy days, Sue serves breakfast inside (as was our case).

The breakfast was excellent: fruit, cereal, juices, joghurt; cooked eggs (fresh from her chickens running around on the grass outside), bacon, sausage, mushrooms and tomatoes; toast with home-made jam and marmalade; tea or coffee.  Sue and her husband are wonderful hosts, who chatted about the local sights, life in South Africa etc, and made sure that we had everything that we needed.

Knock knock! Can I come in? A Vervet Monkey on the entrance call button

We paid R450 pp for bed and fully cooked breakfast. No charge for kids under 5 years. But I think prices have increased a little very recently. 50% deposit required.

As you leave the highway for the Salt Rock/Sheffield Beach turn-off, there is a shopping mall, with a Super Spar, banks, a Topps Liquor Store, and a pleasant restaurant called BBM—where we ate, as it wasn’t possible to braai at our B&B. Some of us had the fish of the day, which was a local Red Roman. Delicious. Reasonably priced too. We asked the young white waiter what BBM stood for and he said that one version is “Bring Back Malema” and the other is “Big Black Mama”! Hmm…think we prefer the second!

St Louis: Update on Endangered Wolf Center

Update on Endangered Wolf Center, Eureka, Missouri

Logo for the center

About 10 years ago I wrote about our experiences at the really interesting Endangered Wolf Center, not far outside the city of St Louis.

Take a look here:

http://viviennemackie.wordpress.com/silver-gypsies/endangered-wolf-center-st-louis-mo/

Well, I’m happy to give an update on the center, which continues to do wonderful conservation work and which deserves our support. If you are ever in the St Louis area, do take a bit of time to visit the Center, as it’s a great example of Animal Conservation at work.

Thanks to Cheryl Hughey of the Endangered Wolf Center, who sent me a copy of the newest press release.

The Endangered Wolf Center is starting its annual fundraiser and has decided to use Apache, a Mexican gray wolf, to serve as their “spokesperson” for their annual campaign. This might seem unusual, but actually this creative move supports their animal-centered approach.

Apache is a very handsome creature

 

As the press release states, “Apache was born on May 2, 1998 to Cheech and Juanita at the Endangered Wolf Center in Eureka, Mo. As the elder statesman of the Center, Apache is a living tribute to the successful reintroduction of Mexican gray wolves to North America.

There are only 75 Mexican gray wolves remaining in the wild. This wolf is the most endangered mammal in North America and the Center has been making great strides reintroducing them back into the wilderness. Every Mexican gray wolf in the wild can trace its lineage back to the Endangered Wolf Center,” said Regina Mossotti, Director of Animal Care and Conservation.

Donations for the Endangered Wolf Center’s annual fund can be made by visiting their website at www.endangeredwolfcenter.org, by calling 636-938-5900 or by mailing a check directly to the 501c(3) at P.O. Box 760, Eureka, Mo. 63025, USA.

For more information about the Endangered Wolf Center, visit their web site, or read my article (above).

 

Oribi Gorge, South Africa

Various attractions in the area

Chimney Rock, one of the unusual rock formations in the gorge

Rod and I were at university in Natal, South Africa,  for many years, and for whatever reasons we never did get to visit the well-known Oribi Gorge—even though many students did go there and the outdoors clubs went camping and hiking there.

So, on our most recent trip to South Africa and the Natal south coast we decided to rectify this omission. We were staying in Hibberdene and set off one morning in our little rental car with my sister and my mother, both of whom were very happy to go on a special excursion. Our main goal: the Oribi Gorge Hotel.

We turned off the main road between Port Shepstone and Kokstad—about 20km (12 miles) from Port Shepstone—onto a narrow road that first winds through sugar cane fields and then thick forests. First we climbed up and then wound down again to the river, with pretty views of the cliffs and rocky crags and lush vegetation. Back up again onto the plateau for quite a while, so we began to wonder if this was in fact the right road, as there were no more signs of the cliffs or a gorge. Not what we were expecting. But, expectations are deceptive and almost as soon as we turned off onto the narrow, badly-rutted track to the hotel we began to see glimpses of a wooded gorge.

The Oribi Gorge Hotel is the entrance point for the actual gorge area, where you pay

Rod, Viv, Veronita, granny Joy—-all very happy with the morning tea

to get in (R10 per pensioner, R20 per adult). We stopped first at the hotel’s Wild Fig Cafe for tea and scones, an advertised morning special and I must say it was very pleasant. It’s an old colonial hotel, low and rambling, with wide verandahs, pretty gardens with flowers and big trees, a bar and restaurant and a craft/curio shop, where we bought a packet of the local coffee. We could easily imagine it as the meeting place for the local sugar cane and coffee farmers. Nowadays, the hotel also targets tourists and it must be a good place to stay. After visiting the actual gorge area, we came back for lunch, which was also good—the servers are very pleasant but a little slow, but, hey, we’re in rural Africa here and time moves more slowly. Prices are very reasonable—R115 (with tip) for four teas and huge scones, for example. That’s about $13.50 at the then-exchange rate.

Rod on the suspension bridge

Oribi Gorge is situated along the forest-cloaked ravine of the Mzimkulwana River. A dirt road takes visitors along the edge of the gorge, which curves in a rough L-shape here. The road was in terrible shape at that time, partly due to very heavy rains this rainy season, but probably also due to lack of maintenance by the looks of it. We were given a “map” of the turn-off points etc, but nothing was properly sign-posted, so we missed quite a few I think. There are various look-out points, to see rocky crags with special shapes—such as Camel Rock, or Baboon Castle—or the Lehr’s waterfall (there wasn’t much water when we were there). There’s also a longish suspension bridge over a narrow arm of the gorge, which I was brave enough to try! From the falls area, they offer abseiling, a Wild Swing (type of bungee jumping), and zip-lining. You can also try rafting, horse riding and paintball. Most of these activities are open daily, from around 8:30am-4:30 or 5:00pm. Check at the hotel.

Not much water in the falls at that time!

It is all very pretty, but access in general is rather difficult, especially for anyone who is even slightly disabled (like my old mother, so she couldn’t really get to see anything). I have to say that we were a little underwhelmed, given all that we’d heard! Pity. But, it’s still worth a trip and I’m glad we finally got here. The tea at the hotel definitely made up for that minor disappointment!

For more information:

http://www.oribigorge.co.za/

Viv and sister Veronita on the suspension bridge

A brave soul trying the swing!

Supposedly the world’s highest gorge swing!

This way to Wild FIg Cafe

Another one of South Africa’s Great Wineries—Uva Mira

A typical wine route sign

Uva Mira

Uva Mira tasting room with Helderberg mountain behind—the winter season

Their catch phrase “A Celebration of Elevation”

The first time we went here, we’d never heard of this winery but it’s one of Anthea’s favorites and we can see why. In the Stellenbosch wine growing district, it’s in a gorgeous setting with stunning views of vineyards and mountains.

This boutique winery is situated at the end of the road, up on the slopes behind the Helderberg mountains. Unlike Blaauwklippen and some other wine estates, which have many activities besides wine tasting, you go there for the magnificent view—up to the mountains and down to the sea and the beaches. You go there to experience the highest wine estate and the highest vineyards in South Africa (although Delheim also claims to have the highest vineyards). You go there to experience the servers with their practiced humorous patter. And of course for the wonderful wines. They tend to be rather more expensive than some others, but the total experience is worth it. Their chardonnay is reputedly the best in the world!

Rod and Kev in the summer season

It’s a very pleasant tasting room next to a cellar with huge oak barrels. The tasting room is all in wood, with an outside deck too and an enclosed sunroom with window ‘walls’. It’s decorated with huge vases of proteas, which they also grow (and sell) on the estate. The entrance steps are decorated with bird tiles, many roosters, a whimsical touch.

The altitude of the vineyards ranges from 420-620m (1,335-2,015 ft) above sea level, providing a cooler climate that helps to produce great wine in South Africa.

The tasting room manager is a South African Colored lady—Audrey Olckers— who is a real character with a story. She was a vineyard laborer and rose up the ranks to manager, due to her personality and ability to grasp and explain things, and after she was recommended by some German tourists when she stepped in to help the tasting room one day. Her story adds something extra to the whole tasting experience, as she explains all the wines and their characteristics to the visitors.

Relax, with a view

Audrey explains the wines at our recent tasting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

tasting the great wines

“What do you think of that one?”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are no real gardens for visitors to walk in and no café per se, although you can order a cheese plate or a meat platter.

We bought the sauvignon blanc 2012 for R75 (about $8.80 at the exchange rate then) and found it excellent; and Joanna bought the Uva Mira special blended red. It was R200 ($23.50) on the estate but she really liked it at the tasting and decided to buy it. It was good, I must admit, but way over our usual price range.

R40 pp to taste (about $4.70).

Located off Annandale Road, off R44 between Somerset West and Stellenbosch. It’s at the end of the road, past a number of other wineries, such as Ernie Els and Guardian Peak.

Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm

www.uvamira.co.za

Beautiful any time of year

What a view—of vines on a steep slope with the Helderberg behind

Whimsical tiles on the entrance steps