Chez Eugene, Place du Tertre
People-watching with a view to the white-domed Sacre Coeur.
This is our favorite place in Montmartre (maybe Paris even) for moules et frites (mussels and French fries). It’s one of many eateries on and around the Place du Tertre—the iconic square in Paris where artists of all kinds gather to paint, draw, or cut pictures or caricatures, and try to sell them—and is easily recognized by its bright red awnings. It’s always super busy but the wait staff do a pretty good job of attending to the customers. The staff must need to be young and fit to lug those heavy trays upstairs and downstairs!
In summer they have outdoor tables under a tent in Place du Tertre, and these do tend to be very crowded. In cooler weather you can sit just outside the restaurant entrance under the heaters, or opt for inside, either upstairs of downstairs. Over the years, we’ve tested all the seating options, and probably our favorite place is upstairs at a table overlooking the square (if you’re lucky enough to get one). In summer you can watch the crowds and the artists, in winter some artists still come and it’s lovely with sparkling holiday lights in the frosty air.
There are many variations on the moules—all delicious. They come with frites, but you also get bread to help mop up the sauces. Choose a beer or the housewine to go with the meal, and you won’t end up spending too much—last time, for 2 moules et frites, and a bottle of wine we paid 32.50 euros. In peak seasons, many large groups come here, but Chez Eugene generally handles them well, usually placing the groups inside on the ground floor. Live music begins at 8:30pm, which is a lot of fun and the crowds love it. One time we had 2 guys from Haiti on the table right next to us—part of a bigger group on another table. They were singing gustily along with the music, clapping and even stood up to dance.
Good food, good atmosphere, reasonable prices for a city like Paris, and especially in the very touristy Montmartre area.
Chez Eugene, Montmartre
17 Place du Tertre, Paris 75018
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